Thanks for All the Info

BillC

Member
You guys and this forum are great!
I'm new to this cast iron thing. Seems kind of addicting! I was just looking for good cookware and came across some old pans.
Through what I've learned on this site, I've been able to clean and resurrect the old cast items I've found to a like new condition.
Let's just say I lye. Then e-tank. Less than $40 in parts (I got new containers, without that cost, less than $10). Presto, very clean CI with minimal scrubbing. Thank you, thank you, thank you!
I guess since it soaks in a lye tank, I don't get the sludge or slime film on top of my etank electrolyte? Just lots of rust on the rebar.
Is there an easy way to clean the rebar, besides the basic wire brush? Or do I just move on to SS anodes?
Again, you guys are awesome!!!
This is a fantastic site to get the needed info on all of my questions regarding cast iron!
Now...on to the recipes!!!
 
Hi Bill,

Yes, just move onto stainless steel, you will be much happier! It certainly is the best way to go.
 
If you're like me and don't want to spend money on e-tank parts, go to your local mom and pop lawn & garden shop and ask if they have any old lawnmower blades they'd be willing to part with. The place I went to gave me a dozen blades for free. Not as good as stainless, but way better than rebar.
 
If you're like me and don't want to spend money on e-tank parts, go to your local mom and pop lawn & garden shop and ask if they have any old lawnmower blades they'd be willing to part with. The place I went to gave me a dozen blades for free. Not as good as stainless, but way better than rebar.

I can confirm this will work, I own a lawn and garden dealership, we have all the free used blades you could haul away!
My etank plates are actually 4 of the old metal lawn mower discharge chutes
 
If you have a scrap yard anywhere nearby, you should be able to find some s.s. at scrap prices.
I recently switched my anodes to 5" x 30" 3/16 s.s. plates and the difference is beyond belief.
The last two pans I ran through the tank left absolutely no visible difference in the anodes at all.
 
Thank you!
I should be able to find a scrap yard nearby. How many plates do you use and how do you connect them together?
I just wrapped the rebar with insulated wire that I stripped at point of contact.
Same works for stainless? Should I solder if I don't need to clean as much?
 
I use a piece of electric fence wire with electrical cable clamps that clamp to a shallow groove I made in the top edge of each anode.
I have three anodes in a 35 gallon barrel.
I think the clamps are the most versatile way to go, as you can add or subtract anodes as you see fit.
 
Eventually you may want to look into graphite plates. I have been using them for years and can't ever see going back. No clean up and long lasting. They can be a hefty initial investment but you will thank yourself years later.
 
Again, you guys are AWESOME!
Stopped by scrap yard, now I've doubled my investment (another $35) but I probably have way more scrap than I need. 2 16in by 16in x 3/8in plates and 2 3/8in x 24in rods.
Now to get it fitted into my tank and wired up.
Another question...should I empty the rust flakes (over 1/2 in) off the bottom?
The reaction seems to work just as well with the residue down there. I know I'll need to empty one day, but why waste the electrolyte?
 
As usual, good info here.
Got the stainless plates wired and clamped up. Did three badly rusted pans so far and hardly anything on the plates.
Once my krusty korn Kob pan is done, I'll give them a scrub.
Thanks again for all the great support!
 
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