#8 Wagner waffle iron

K

Kyle S.

Member
Hello everyone,
This is the first waffle iron I have ever seen, I couldn't resist, and it was pretty cheap as well. I was wondering if I could get some info on when it was made? I also had a few seasoning questions/use questions.
1) What do I do with the wooden handles, they are not coming off.
2) How can I season this baby with them on?
3) Can I use this on my electric stove? It has the coils.
That is all I can think of now but I hope your responses spark more. I cannot wait to make waffles!!!
 

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That particular set of markings isn't shown in either the BB or RB, but it should be from around just after the patent date to about the early 1920s.

The handles on Wagners attach in two different ways, either a long machine screw all the way through the handle that threads into a socket in the casting, or a wood screw that is part of the casting, about 2" long. If there's no screwhead at the end of the handle, you have the latter. Penetrating oil may loosen it up enough to twist off. If they won't come off, cleaning with lye or electro can be accomplished by keeping the handles above the water line, and initial seasoning would have to be over a burner instead of in the oven. Since waffles rely on oil or cooking spray for best release, you don't really have to do more than one manual seasoning before trying it out. Won't be perfect the first few batches, but it will get there in time.
 
Nice find . I can't help with the dating , but the handles are either threaded on , a small nail through a hole in the cast iron handle into the wood or sometimes the handle has a hole drilled in the end and are just pushed onto a rod that has a tapered tip . You'll have to gently try twisting it if there is no nail .
 
Thanks Doug. I am afraid to twist them because I don't want the wood to crack. Is it possible to use this iron on my coiled electric stove? Any thoughts are appreciated.
thanks,
kyle
 
Low bases were used over open woodstove eyes. When gas hotplates and ranges came into vogue, high bases allowed the paddles to be turned without lifting, and moved them away from the heat source. You can use your low base over a coil or gas burner with that understanding. Preheat the paddles but lower the heat to bake them without burning. If you are resourceful, you might try to come up with some kind of ring to raise your low base up about 3".
 
Thanks Doug. There is a high base at a local store that I might go check out tomorrow and see if it fits my iron just for utilities sake. If not I am sure there is something I can rig to make it work. Pretty excited for Saturday morning waffles with the kids. Maybe next week.
kyle
 
You paddles are of the design where both are from the same pattern, and do not rely on mirror image leveling pins. Leveling is instead achieved by the flats on the handle shanks. If the base you're referring to is of the right diameter, has a ball hinge receiver that fits yours, and has a cut-out for the handle shanks that's flat-bottomed, it will be a miracle, but you might get lucky.
 
Maybe I won't go check it out. :p Miracles happen though right?

---------- Post added at 09:44 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:30 PM ----------
Doug D. said:
and initial seasoning would have to be over a burner instead of in the oven.
Click to expand...

Doug,
My current plan for seasoning is to apply oil, like I always do when seasoning, to all surfaces and then place it over my burner on medium/medium high, flipping every so often, for around 45 minutes until it is no longer sticky.

How does the sound? Any other suggestions or tips? I really am at a loss here and would appreciate and thoughts from anyone.
Thanks,
Kyle
 
Maybe even hotter. The trick will be really getting all the excess oil out of the spaces between the nubs first. Q-tips or a towel wrapped around a piece of cardboard are some suggestions.
 
Would PAM be good in this situation? I have never used it before to season but I have heard it is good for applications like this.
 
Kyle S. said:
Would PAM be good in this situation? I have never used it before to season but I have heard it is good for applications like this.
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It is popular among more than a few collectors. If you have no issue with using it, it is a viable alternative.
 
Use the Google search above for this site, waffle, and read away. You'll probably find answers for your next 5 questions in the threads here.

Hilditch
 
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I have those paddles in aluminum. the handles screw off. there is a wood screw embedded in the aluminum. they just twist off
 

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Nice WI Kyle, I would like to add one of those to the kitchen myself. And the best part, it sounds like you picked it up for my kinda price.

On having a high base. I would look for one that could fit. if not and your good at metal working. Hunt for a cheap sauce pan at the thrift shops the size you need and cut the bottom off at the height you need and cut the groves for the WI to fit. Not an original look but would be functional.
 
Kyle S. said:
Thanks Doug. I am afraid to twist them because I don't want the wood to crack. Is it possible to use this iron on my coiled electric stove? Any thoughts are appreciated.
thanks,
kyle
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Kyle

You may not need to apply as much pressure as you think. This thread inspired me to get into the garage and tackle a few projects in the queue, one of which is a Wagner #8 that I am guessing is like yours. I did not need to apply much pressure to take the handles off. A few back and forth motions was all it took for me. Here is a picture (you can see the crud was caked on pretty good, too):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/139658521@N07/shares/jgU8Y9
 
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Doug D. said:
You paddles are of the design where both are from the same pattern, and do not rely on mirror image leveling pins. Leveling is instead achieved by the flats on the handle shanks. If the base you're referring to is of the right diameter, has a ball hinge receiver that fits yours, and has a cut-out for the handle shanks that's flat-bottomed, it will be a miracle, but you might get lucky.
Click to expand...

Hey Doug,
The more I clean this guy and look closer the more I am suspicious that the paddles aren't matching. You said they were cast from the same mold but there are clear differences on the paddles. One has a smaller 8 and Larger "WAGNER" and the other is opposite. I was guessing this was the case so you could remember if you flipped it while cooking but now I am doubting. The aluminum one on this thread seems to be identical on both sides. Any clarification is appreciated.
Kyle

---------- Post added at 12:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:55 PM ----------
Mike F said:
Kyle

You may not need to apply as much pressure as you think. This thread inspired me to get into the garage and tackle a few projects in the queue, one of which is a Wagner #8 that I am guessing is like yours. I did not need to apply much pressure to take the handles off. A few back and forth motions was all it took for me. Here is a picture (you can see the crud was caked on pretty good, too):

https://www.flickr.com/photos/139658521@N07/shares/jgU8Y9
Click to expand...

No matter how hard I twist I cannot get these handles to budge. I will keep trying though. It would make my life easier. Thanks for the encouragement.
Kyle
 
Kyle, are you turning them the right way? Just kidding! Some helpful soul may have glued them to keep them from coming loose. :( They look like replacement handles.

Hilditch
 
Kyle S. said:
Hey Doug,
The more I clean this guy and look closer the more I am suspicious that the paddles aren't matching. You said they were cast from the same mold but there are clear differences on the paddles. One has a smaller 8 and Larger "WAGNER" and the other is opposite. I was guessing this was the case so you could remember if you flipped it while cooking but now I am doubting. The aluminum one on this thread seems to be identical on both sides. Any clarification is appreciated.
Click to expand...
Same version of pattern, not necessarily same exact working pattern. Markings on the older pieces were not as consistent as those of later years.
 
You guys convinced me that it would twist off so I prayed, carefully adjusted my vice grips, wrapped a towel around the handle, applied pressure and they both loosened with no damage! Hurray. Now the cleaning and seasoning will go much faster. One of the handles jiggled a bit before I took it off. Come to find out that the screw coming our of the paddle is loose from the paddle itself. It won't spin but it seems like the screw head was cast around the paddle. Maybe some iron has broken and let it loose a bit? It it not going anywhere and not to surprising for an almost 100 year old piece of cookware. Let me know your thoughts guys.
Still curious if my paddles go together.
Thanks,
Kyle
 
Consider the typical foundry scenario: Dozens of patterns, some with variations in markings considered at the time immaterial, being used to makes dozens of molds at the same time. Then, dozens of castings broken out and stacked in a pile. QC at the time didn't likely sort through the stacks to find identical pairs. In this case, any two would function perfectly together.
 
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