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Cast Iron Cleaning and Seasoning Help With and Tips & Techniques For Cast Iron Cookware Restoration |
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#11
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![]() http://imgur.com/a/vXB6MBC |
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#12
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Update:
The #9 has been soaking for a day and the #11 for two days. Yesterday I resprayed the #11 just after spraying the #9 and learned a valuable lesson; reaching into a large trash bag that is coated inside with easy-off can still come into contact with skin even when wearing gloves and long sleeves. Avoid using large trash bags (40-55 gallon) to wrap them in. Both the #9 and #11 are looking better tho the #11 has a bit more grime on the bottom yet. The Erie lettering is becoming more legible as the grime dissolves and I'm patiently looking forward to the end result. It's a challenge not to rush it. I've put both pans in separate and smaller trash bags and will leave them to soak for another couple of days. Pics of #9's progress. http://imgur.com/a/dRm2ulg Pics of #11's progress. http://imgur.com/a/Uc949Py |
#13
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I now also own an Erie 3rd series #12. I swear I don't have collection fever as I wasn't planning on owning three skillets but it just worked out that way. If I were looking for a collection strategy though, I might go with a pan from each Erie series.
Erie 3rd Series #12 pre restoration. The #9 and #11 are still soaking. http://imgur.com/a/l4AIJ6t After reading the article again I'm now searching for the chore boys. They might be hard to find in my area and an online order could take a week. |
#14
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UPDATE:
No SS Chore Boys sold locally so I picked up the Scotch Brite SS Scrubbing Pads. Pics of #9's progress (day 3). Its probably ready to move on to the next steps of diluted vinegar bath, 0000 steel wool finishing, then initial seasoning. http://imgur.com/a/vXKu73w Pics of #11's progress (day 4). http://imgur.com/a/kJVSYB5 All three pans are wrapped and soaking in easy off. |
#15
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QUESTION:
I've been checking on the pans throughout the soak phase by pulling the pan out of the garbage bag, wiping the muck off, inspecting, respraying, and then wrapping in a new trash bag to soak again. Do I need to be concerned about rust? What if I took the pan to the sink, rinsed with cold water and soap, then resprayed (easy off)? Should I not be wiping the easy off in the first place? |
#16
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the issues you have encountered so far are the reasons most people who clean a lot of pieces use the lye bath rather than the easy off/trash bag... the lye bath is easier, less messy, can do multiple pieces at the same time and hundreds before you need to add more lye.
temperature makes a big difference in results with easy off/trash bag, temps over 100 F are good for lye reactions, so sitting in the sun in a black bag are ideal, sitting in a garage at 50 F, not so much. it will work but it will take longer. I used the easy off method for a couple dozen pieces before switching to the lye bath... and I would let them sit 3-4 days if the temps were cooler between checking on them. and I would usually scrub with the stainless steel scrubbie when checking them and then wash them off (so I could see what I was dealing with to determine the next step)... I also started using an electrolysis tank after the first couple dozen pieces... it does a great job on the stuck on crud left over from the lye as well as any rust. |
#17
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Ok, sounds like I'm still on the right track as I don't plan on restoring any more pieces. The #9 is restored and the #11 and #12 are soaking in the attic where the temps are much warmer. Sounds like there isn't much I can do about the rust will soaking.
I'll post the final restoration pics and lessons learned once the #11 and #12 are completed. The #9 turned out great ![]() |
#18
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Update:
#9 and #12 are restored but I have rust issues with #11. The finishing of #11 seems to be different than the other two. The spout interiors aren’t smooth like the rest of the inside and the exterior is generally rougher. The #11 is a first series and maybe at that time they didn’t finish smooth those areas I mentioned. Maybe they fixed it during the series run? This pan seemed to flash rust quicker and more severely. It’s the only pan of the three that came out of the vinegar bath rustier than it went in. It might be due to weather as it was forecast to snow last night. The pics show that rust is still present so I will lye soak again and use a slightly more aggressive steel wool grade. For all the pans up to now I’ve been using 0000 steel wool. Erie #11 Rust Issues https://imgur.com/a/E3jx3Cn |
#19
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I believe the ability to grind or otherwise finish the inside of the pour spouts (or lips as they were called then) was something that evolved a bit over time... I think I've seen that it was a separate step than the person who ground the flat cooking surface and the side walls... lipping was a separate step done on a special machine... good looking 11 though.
yes, on the steel wool... 0000 is more for polishing... not much for removing anything... I have an assortment of steel wool grades and use them as needed grade 3 and 2 for stubborn gunk that isn't popping off from lye or electrolysis and for odd shapes that require some heft to get into waffle iron patterns or anything else that isn't flat, 1 and 0 for wiping/scrubbing after removal from electrolysis tank.. and 00 - 0000 for finishing up (rarely use 0000 unless the piece is really, really smooth already.. |
#20
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Somewhere in all the info is the recommendation to rinse in cold water for less flash rusting.
Thanks for keeping me entertained while I (at least) hibernate! |
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2nd series, erie, maker's mark, restoration |
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