The ultimate E-Tank

Lloyd B

Member
All the information I can find is what I'd consider a "make - shift" e-tank. If you could build your dream system how would you do it? I use a lye tank because it holds a dozen pieces at a time. If I can build an e-tank that would do the same I'd be in CI restoration heaven. Is there a commercial size dream design out there?
 
I've seen pics of e-tanks made from salvaged/second hand stainless steel tanks, both round and square. They are not only the tank, but also serve as the anode. Folks seem to be happy with them, but even they are not doing a dozen pieces at a time.
 
The tank isn't the problem, just knowing what power source is best to deliver enough power to clean multiple pieces. I have a few RV power inverters.........
 
At some point I plan to take an old PC power supply and rig it up to power my e-tank. I just need a weatherproof electrical box to put it in. I already have all the other parts.
 
The tank isn't the problem, just knowing what power source is best to deliver enough power to clean multiple pieces. I have a few RV power inverters.........

If you are changing 120VAC into 12VDC, then you have RV Power Converters, not Inverters.

Inverters change the 12VDC power from the batteries into 120VAC which allows you to run your normal plug in the wall items.

Converters change 120VAC into 12VDC to run your 12 volt LED lights, and other DC powered items.
 
If you are changing 120VAC into 12VDC, then you have RV Power Converters, not Inverters.

Inverters change the 12VDC power from the batteries into 120VAC which allows you to run your normal plug in the wall items.

Converters change 120VAC into 12VDC to run your 12 volt LED lights, and other DC powered items.
You are correct, the sticker says inverter but you are correct.
 
I was thinking about a barrier between the plates and the iron, great idea with the milk crate. I wonder if having pieces of iron between the individual pieces and the plates would matter at all?
 
Don't need the milk crate or anything else as a barrier. It's not like the pieces are moving around in there. Anything you put between the piece you're trying to clean and the anode is going to reduce the efficiency of cleaning and may produce a shadow effect. The process works much better on "line of sight."
 
As I watched all three videos I was wishing he would have put the skillet in a lye bath first. There would have been much less scum and the e-bath would have been quicker.

Hilditch
 
Humorous discussion about inverter/converter since neither is an electrical term.

You want DC from AC, just get a big full wave bridge rectifier and you're there. Of course, 120VAC RMS makes ~180VDC peak and will supply the AC line current (current is the killer), which will light stuff up if you're not careful. Current limiting would be a next consideration.

People use battery chargers to reduce voltage and limit current. I imagine more current, faster cleaning.
 
Humorous discussion about inverter/converter since neither is an electrical term.

You want DC from AC, just get a big full wave bridge rectifier and you're there. Of course, 120VAC RMS makes ~180VDC peak and will supply the AC line current (current is the killer), which will light stuff up if you're not careful. Current limiting would be a next consideration.

People use battery chargers to reduce voltage and limit current. I imagine more current, faster cleaning.

Electrical terms? AC inverters and converters are electronic devices. An RV power converter does the same thing a manual battery charger does, convert 120VAC to 12VDC. An RV converter can source a lot more current than a battery charger. The trade-off is that it costs more.
 
Electrical terms? AC inverters and converters are electronic devices. An RV power converter does the same thing a manual battery charger does, convert 120VAC to 12VDC. An RV converter can source a lot more current than a battery charger. The trade-off is that it costs more.

So since I have four I'm not using it's a good plan?

---------- Post added at 10:19 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:18 PM ----------

Don't need the milk crate or anything else as a barrier. It's not like the pieces are moving around in there. Anything you put between the piece you're trying to clean and the anode is going to reduce the efficiency of cleaning and may produce a shadow effect. The process works much better on "line of sight."

So my plan on two rows of three wouldn't be a good idea?
 
While you can stack as many pans as will fit in a lye bath and have them all get clean, trying to do the same with an electro tank is going to be more like the law of diminishing returns. Even if you have 360* anode coverage, pans blocking each other are just going to slow things down.
 
I couldn't hear the video. Why is the basket in there? Wouldn't it cast shadows on the pan (blocking line of sight.)?
 
The process is largely line-of-sight. Obstructions closer to the piece being cleaned are more likely to leave "shadows" than those further away or up against the anode. Having said that, the crud and rust are removed from the side of the pan facing away from my single, graphite plate anode just fine, but just not as fast as the side facing it.
 
I couldn't hear the video. Why is the basket in there? Wouldn't it cast shadows on the pan (blocking line of sight.)?

He was using the basket to make certain the pan didn't make contact with the "anode" sheets. Mine will be within an inch or so and I'm doing the same just to be safe.
 
My tank is similar, with a couple of exceptions. I use just 2 graphite plate, anodes (front and back, although I see the advantage to the 2 on the sides). And I made my plastic milk crate basket narrower, and my back-side anode hangs from a rod that I can slide as close to the basket as I can. I fins that the pans clean much better with the anodes kept closer.
 
I've watched those videos and while I agree it's a nice looking setup and works effectively in my opinion with the money he spent on his tote, 4 c-clamps, exterior cable with 5 connectors, 4 jumper wires with 8 clamps, 2 plastic crates, pvc stand (tube, elbows and tees) and chain I've probably got less money in my 55 gal. plastic barrel lined 360* with a sheet of stainless steel. I hang pieces on S-hooks bent from 1/8" steel suspended from a piece of old broomstick layed across top of barrel. I've used this setup for 4 years and 500+ pieces with no degradation of the stainless and the only maintenance being occasionally scrubbing some scum off of the stainless with a long handled nylon brush and changing water once a year. My setup probably has the same footprint as his and will do pieces 20" across and 30" long. If you don't have a stainless liner you can also hang an anode from a separate hook till your able to locate one. If you have problem finding a cheap sheet of stainless look for metal scrappers in the "wanted" section of your local Craigslist. Just contact and tell them what your looking for and that you will pay more than the scrapyard will. My piece was thin enough so I could roll it just enough to go in barrel then let it expand back out to fit tightly against the sides.
 
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